Dawnice Inverter — Pure sine wave AC from your DC battery bank

Dawnice Inverter units provide clean AC power from 12/24/48V battery systems so appliances, tools, and electronics run as they do on the grid. Models offer robust surge capability, efficient conversion, and options for transfer switching and remote control, making them a fit for vans/RVs, boats, cabins, and selective home backup circuits.

When to choose a Dawnice Inverter

• Use if you need to run sensitive electronics (laptops, audio gear), appliances with motors or compressors (fridges, pumps), or induction cooktops.
• Use if you switch between shore power and battery often (choose a model with built-in transfer switching and a remote panel).
• Avoid undersizing: if your continuous loads regularly exceed 80% of the inverter’s rating, step up a size for reliability and cooler operation.
• Avoid for long-duration high-wattage heating (space heaters, electric water heating) unless your battery bank and charging can support the sustained draw.

Right-size your inverter and battery

1. List concurrent loads: Add the watts of everything you’ll run at the same time.
2. Account for surge: Motors/compressors can require 2–5× their running watts for a few seconds.
3. Add headroom: Choose an inverter with 20–30% more continuous capacity than your expected draw.
4. Check DC current draw: DC amps ≈ AC watts ÷ (battery volts × 0.90). Use this to size cables, fuses, and your battery/BMS.

Approximate DC current at 90% efficiency

Quick runtime estimates

Runtime (hours) ≈ usable battery Wh × 0.85 ÷ load W (the 0.85 factor approximates inverter and wiring losses).

• 12V 200Ah LiFePO4 (≈ 2.4 kWh usable): 800 W coffee maker for 10 min ≈ 133 Wh (~5% of bank).
• 12V 200Ah LiFePO4: 1500 W induction cooktop for 20 min ≈ 425 Wh (~18%).
• 12V 100Ah LiFePO4 (≈ 1.2 kWh usable): 1000 W microwave for 5 min ≈ 83 Wh (~7%).
• 24V 200Ah LiFePO4 (≈ 4.8 kWh usable): 600 W fridge cycling 8 h/day ≈ 4.1 kWh/month.

Installation essentials

• Cable sizing: Keep voltage drop under ~3%. As a rule of thumb for short runs: up to ~200 A use 2/0 AWG; ~300 A use 4/0 AWG. Verify with a voltage-drop calculator for your exact length and current.
• Overcurrent protection: Install a Class-T or ANL fuse near the battery sized to protect the cable and accommodate inverter surge (often 1.25× the inverter’s max DC current).
• Disconnects and busbars: Use a battery disconnect switch and properly rated busbars to distribute high current safely.
• Mounting & cooling: Mount on a solid surface with several inches of clearance for airflow; avoid engine bays and corrosive or damp locations. Provide service access to re-torque lugs and inspect fuses/filters.
• Do not backfeed: Never connect the inverter to a building circuit without a transfer switch, interlock, or subpanel that isolates utility power.

Transfer switching, grounding, and GFCI notes

• Transfer switch: Choose a model with pass-through sized for your shore power source (e.g., 15–30A). This allows seamless switching between shore and inverter power.
• Neutral-ground bond: Only one power source should bond neutral to ground at a time. Follow the inverter manual and local code for bonding behavior in inverter and shore modes.
• GFCI/AFCI: Many pure sine inverters work with GFCI outlets; verify model compatibility and use listed devices.
• Code compliance: Follow NEC/ABYC or local regulations for conductor sizing, protection, and equipment grounding.

Battery and charging compatibility

• Chemistries: Works with LiFePO4 and lead-acid banks. Ensure the battery’s BMS and wiring are rated for the inverter’s peak DC current.
• Charging sources: Pair with solar (MPPT), alternator DC-DC chargers, or shore chargers. If you need AC battery charging from shore, consider an inverter/charger model.
• Temperature: Many LiFePO4 batteries cannot charge below 32°F (0°C) without heating. Protect and condition the battery space as needed.

Choosing system voltage (12V vs 24V vs 48V)

• 12V: Best for smaller systems and RV/van retrofits. High currents at >1500 W require very large cables.
• 24V: Balanced option for 1500–3000 W systems; cuts current (and cable size) roughly in half vs 12V.
• 48V: Efficient for >3000 W or long cable runs; requires compatible chargers and DC accessories.

Common setups

• Van/RV: 12V 200–400Ah LiFePO4 + 2000–3000W inverter for induction cooking, kettle, and outlets; add transfer switch for campground shore power.
• Cabin: 24V 200–400Ah + inverter/charger for fridge, lights, tools; solar array sized for daily kWh load.
• Marine: 12/24V bank + pure sine inverter for galley loads and chargers; follow ABYC grounding and ELCI/GFCI guidance.

Compatibility notes

• Output voltage/frequency: Select a model that matches your region and loads (e.g., 120V/60Hz or 230V/50Hz).
• Remote panels: Useful for mounting controls where you live rather than near batteries.
• Idle draw: Inverter idle consumption can be 10–40W; search/eco modes may reduce this to a few watts. Factor this into daily energy budget.

FAQ

Bottom line

Size the inverter to your real loads, choose the right system voltage, and install with appropriately rated cabling, fusing, and transfer equipment. A properly integrated Dawnice Inverter delivers quiet, dependable AC power wherever you need it.