AuxBeam Cubes

AuxBeam Cube Lights: A Practical Setup and Buying Guide

AuxBeam cube lights pack targeted illumination into small, durable housings. With the right optic and placement, a pair can improve mid-field visibility, fill road shoulders, light a work area, or simplify reversing—without the complexity or current draw of a large bar.

When to Choose Cube Lights

• Use if you want modular lighting (front, sides, rear) that fits tight spaces like bumper pockets and A-pillars.
• Use if you need specific beam patterns for distance (spot), task lighting (flood), or poor weather (fog-style).
• Avoid if you primarily run high speeds off-road and need broad, uniform throw at long distances—a larger light bar may be better.

Beam Patterns and Placement

Color and Weather Choices

• Cool white (≈5500–6500K): Crisp detail and distance; good for spot/combo front lights.
• Selective yellow (≈2700–3500K): Reduced backscatter and eye fatigue in fog, dust, and snow; great for fog-style and rear floods.
• Seasonal flexibility: Swap lenses or apply amber film to convert white cubes for winter/dust season.

Power, Wiring, and Runtime

Most AuxBeam cubes draw about 1.5–3.5 A each (3–7 A per pair). Size wiring and fuses to the circuit, not just the lamp.

• Wire gauge (typical 12 V automotive runs): up to 5 A → 16–18 AWG; 5–10 A → 16 AWG; 10–15 A → 14 AWG; 15–25 A → 12 AWG.
• Fuse near the power source: 15 A for 14 AWG; 20–25 A for 12 AWG (verify device draw).
• Relays/switch panels: Use a fused relay harness for a single pair, or a multi-gang switch panel for multiple zones.
• Connectors: Weather-sealed (Deutsch-style) plugs reduce intermittents and speed service.

Runtime estimate with engine off: hours ≈ usable battery Ah ÷ total draw (A). Example: A pair drawing 6 A on a 70 Ah battery (use ~50% = 35 Ah) → about 5–6 hours.

Mounting and Aiming

• A-pillar ditch lights: Aim the hotspot slightly below hood height at 25–30 ft, then toe out 10–15° to illuminate shoulders and curves.
• Front bumper: Combo for mid-field; fog-style aimed low/level with the top cutoff below headlight cutoff at 25 ft.
• Rack sides: Floods angled to overlap for uniform scene lighting without harsh hotspots.
• Rear floods: Angle slightly down to avoid glare in mirrors and for safe convoy use.

Installation Steps (Typical 60–120 minutes for a pair)

1. Plan zones (FRONT, SIDES, REAR, FOG) and choose mounting points with good airflow behind heat sinks.
2. Mock-up brackets, verify hood/door clearance, then mark holes.
3. Run a fused power lead from battery to relay/switch panel; ground to bare, clean chassis metal with a star washer.
4. Route loomed harnesses away from sharp edges, hot exhaust, and moving parts; grommet any metal pass-throughs.
5. Terminate with sealed connectors; leave a small service loop near each lamp.
6. Function-test, then aim at night on a flat surface.

Integration and Controls

• High-beam trigger: Use a relay so front cubes follow high beams; add a manual override to switch them off around traffic.
• Reverse trigger: Tie rear floods to the reverse signal through a diode, plus a dash switch for manual use at camp.
• Ignition logic: Power switch panel logic from ignition to prevent leaving lights on; keep lamp power fused at the battery.
• Factory fog replacements: If reusing OEM circuits on CANBUS vehicles, a decoder or separate relay may be needed to avoid warnings.

Durability and Care

• IP67/68 sealing resists dust and immersion; let hot lamps cool before pressure washing or water crossings.
• Keep heat sink fins clear for cooling; avoid blocking airflow behind the light.
• Use stainless hardware with thread locker; re-torque after the first trail day.
• Lens care: Clean with a microfiber cloth; consider protective film for winter grit and sand.

Buying Checklist

1. Pick the pattern for the job: spot (distance), flood (work/scene), combo (all-round), fog-style (weather/on-road courtesy).
2. Select color: white for distance/detail; selective yellow for precipitation and dust.
3. Confirm mounting: A-pillar brackets, bumper pockets, rack tabs, or universal clamps.
4. Choose wiring: harness for one pair, or a switch panel (check per-channel amp rating) for multiple zones.
5. Add lenses/covers (clear/amber) and anti-theft fasteners if needed.

Troubleshooting

• Flicker or intermittents: Reseat connector pins, re-crimp/solder joints, check grounds.
• RF noise on radio: Route power away from antenna coax, add ferrite chokes, and ensure strong chassis/battery grounds.
• Condensation: Light fog after washing can be normal. Persistent droplets suggest a compromised seal—dry fully and reseal or replace.
• Blown fuse: Check for chafed wires, undersized fuse, or miswired relay coil.
• Uneven brightness: Swap lamps side to side to isolate lamp vs wiring/ground issue.

FAQ

Can two cubes replace a light bar? Often for mixed driving and trails, yes. For high-speed off-road where uniform long-range light matters, a bar still helps.

Are relays required? A single low-draw pair can run on a quality harness, but relays or a switch panel are recommended for multiple pairs or higher current.

What IP rating should I look for? IP67 or better for off-road. Let lights cool before soaking to preserve seals.

How should I label and group switches? By zone: FRONT, SIDES, REAR, FOG. It reduces glare and makes night driving simpler.

Will cubes trigger CANBUS errors? Not if powered on new auxiliary circuits. Replacing OEM fogs on CANBUS may require a decoder or separate relay.

Safety and Legal Notes

Know local rules for auxiliary lighting (height, color, covers, and when they may be used). Aim lights to avoid glare, switch off forward spots around traffic, and keep rear floods off on public roads except when reversing.